Should I get a Nikon VR lens to help with my shake???

[nictry]

Hoping for some help or advice on a dilemma!

I am beginning to feel that without some additional ‘support’ my ability to take half decent pictures will be seriously reduced due to an inability to hold my camera still (even on a monopod!) I don't know why I seem to shake as there is no reason why but with a camera in my hand (especially with the 70-300) it all goes wobbly :shrug:

I have done some reading up and feel that perhaps getting a Nikon VR lens may help substantially and as such have looked at both the 18-200 and the 70-300. I currently have a 18-55 kit lens and a Sigma 70-300 APO DG so am looking for something to give me the same ‘reach’ but also if possible reduce my 2 day to day lenses down to one? The other strange thing (at least to me) is that the 18-200 seems to be about £100 more than the 70-300 so was a bit confused about why that would be and which lens would be the best option for me?

One final question is I have a Kenko 1.4 TC and just wanted to check whether that would also work connected up with the D50 and one of the above VR lenses?

Thanks in advance for any responses

[Tastydirt]

Could you post an example picture with EXIF? If you're getting blurry images in bright sunshine then it could be an AF issue rather than camera shake. A monopod especially should eliminate any handshake in daylight.

There are a few options you can try before getting a VR lens if camera shake is a problem. Try setting the ISO to 1600 on your D50, or use shutter priority in daylight and set it to 1/500th or above.

[puddleduck]

Firstly, you can do a LOT to work on your technique, I posted this yesterday so forgive the cut n paste:

As a basis, work on your breathing, and your foot position, and make sure your elbows are tucked in to act as a brace.

http://www.nikonians.org/html/resources/guides/technique/handholding1.html

(I've just observed one technical deficiency of my own when shooting portrait orientation)

Use support from doorframes, trees, fences, anything that is available.

With practice, you should be able to gain 2 or 3 stops within a week I reckon - set your shutter to manual, and look to see what shutter speed you can shoot at now comfortably, and aim to lower that. Once you are aware of what is causing shake, its really easy to improve your technique :)

I think its really important to learn good technique - if you adopt IS from the off, you'll have no incentive to learn (and good technique will always trump technology)

As to the Kenko 1.4x TC that *will* work with all Nikon VR lenses, and VR and AF still works. Be advised that the 18-200 VR is particularly poor with a TC, as its a poor lens so the TC magnifies its optical deficiences. You are also borderline for autofocus at the lens is f/8 at the long end. Be careful at 18mm with a TC as the optical elements are very close together.

The 70-300 VR also works with a Kenko 1.4x TC, but this is a soft lens too at the long end. Expect a fairly soft 420mm f/8 - although VR and AF will also work.

The 55-200 VR is quite good for £125. I can see if the Kenko works if you want? (it should do) - again this will be f/8 at 280mm.

[nictry]

Firstly, you can do a LOT to work on your technique, I posted this yesterday so forgive the cut n paste:

As a basis, work on your breathing, and your foot position, and make sure your elbows are tucked in to act as a brace.

http://www.nikonians.org/html/resources/guides/technique/handholding1.html

(I've just observed one technical deficiency of my own when shooting portrait orientation)

Use support from doorframes, trees, fences, anything that is available.

With practice, you should be able to gain 2 or 3 stops within a week I reckon - set your shutter to manual, and look to see what shutter speed you can shoot at now comfortably, and aim to lower that. Once you are aware of what is causing shake, its really easy to improve your technique :)

I think its really important to learn good technique - if you adopt IS from the off, you'll have no incentive to learn (and good technique will always trump technology)

As to the Kenko 1.4x TC that *will* work with all Nikon VR lenses, and VR and AF still works. Be advised that the 18-200 VR is particularly poor with a TC, as its a poor lens so the TC magnifies its optical deficiences. You are also borderline for autofocus at the lens is f/8 at the long end. Be careful at 18mm with a TC as the optical elements are very close together.

The 70-300 VR also works with a Kenko 1.4x TC, but this is a soft lens too at the long end. Expect a fairly soft 420mm f/8 - although VR and AF will also work.

The 55-200 VR is quite good for £125. I can see if the Kenko works if you want? (it should do) - again this will be f/8 at 280mm.


Thanks for the tips, certainly do try but the more effort I put in the worse the pics tend to be!

Interesting info re the lenses as well, I had thought the 18-200 was THE lens to get but from what you have said that would not appear to be the case? I can pick up a 55-200 for about £120 (US prices) and so would certainly consider this, would be very interested to know if the TC will work as giving up my 70-300 would reduce my range but at least with the TC I know I have some help if needed?

[nictry]

Could you post an example picture with EXIF? If you're getting blurry images in bright sunshine then it could be an AF issue rather than camera shake. A monopod especially should eliminate any handshake in daylight.

There are a few options you can try before getting a VR lens if camera shake is a problem. Try setting the ISO to 1600 on your D50, or use shutter priority in daylight and set it to 1/500th or above.

I will try and get something posted on her (when back home) did think about increasing ISO but felt would lose quality and end up trading blur against image PQ so hadn't pursued this option.

[puddleduck]

You could try the AutoISO feature on the D50?

The D50 is excellent for noise control anyhow - if you can find out what your comfortable handholding speed is, just set auto ISO to slighty higher than that. It will only increase ISO (in 1/6th stops) when it needs to honour your lowest chosen shutter speed, so it'll use ISO200 when it can.

[puddleduck]

Hi Nick

I just tried this combo and its not fully compatible.

I'm just looking at the results... will update in a bit...

[puddleduck]

Well this is the first Kenko TC I've found that is not *fully* compatible with a VR lens - firstly it *does* work, and its reasonably sharp.

However AF "jitters" and hunts in and out - this may just because with an f/5.6 lens, you are already at f/8 and AF is only guaranteed to work at f/5.6.

Secondly VR also "flips" in and out - its locks then the viewfinder "flips" then it re-locks again. There is enough time to get a shot.

The Kenko *does not* pass the correct EXIF - I would expect it to show 280mm f/8, but it still shows up as 200mm f/5.6.

Couple of test shots for sharpness (sorry I left my S5 Pro in ISO2000 from sunday and forgot to change it!)


The Kenko fits fine


http://www.odysseus-software.co.uk/LensTests/55-200VR/DSCF0558-web.jpg

Boring across the road test shot


http://www.odysseus-software.co.uk/LensTests/55-200VR/DSCF0555-web.jpg

100% crop (no sharpening, f/8 @ 280mm, ISO2000)


http://www.odysseus-software.co.uk/LensTests/55-200VR/DSCF0558-acr.jpg


For a £50 teleconverter, and a £125 consumer zoom I think its *OK* - if you can live with the AF hunting, and the VR oddity!

HTH

[nictry]

Thanks for this, and interesting that it won't go with the TC!!!

I am being swayed towards the 70-300 for £240 as this would be a straight swap for my Sigma 70-300 and then I just keep the 18-55 kit.

I know you mentioned a touch of softness at 300mm but is this a big problem and what do you think of the lens overall, is it worth £240??????

Thanks and really appreciate the help!

[Tastydirt]

Do you find the Sigma sharp enough at 300mm? If you do then you won't find a problem with the Nikon's image quality.

At £240 its good value and certainly king of the consumer 70-300 zooms, although if you don't need the 300mm reach, Andy's 55-200VR is excellent value at £120 odd.

If a cheap Sigma 70-200 didn't come along my way I'd probably still be using my 70-300VR.

[puddleduck]

I know you mentioned a touch of softness at 300mm but is this a big problem and what do you think of the lens overall, is it worth £240??????

Yes, its worth £240 I think. If you moderate your expectation downwards for 300mm you'll be fine, 200mm is very sharp. 300mm is usable - stop down to f/11 to get acceptable sharpness.