EF 24-105mm F4 L IS or EF24-70L f2.8

[filmfan100]

I have read the old posts from a few years ago about the EF24-70L f2.8 and could do with some modern advice.:thinking:
I have little equipment 300mm F4 L IS and 1.4x converter and std 18-55mm lens off my 350d.I use a 30d now.
After using the std lens in anger the quality was lacking so need to get another lens.I would prefer being a bit wider than 24mm but as I wont use that much at the wider end I am most interested for portraits and animals.I will need to let more light in so prefer the f2.8 to an f4 but as there is no IS it could be a problem as I shake a bit.
Could do with some advice on what to buy as they both have good points.
If the 24-70L had a stabiliser I would buy it or the other lens worked at F2.8
Jessops have a offer on with vouchers to bring the EF24-70 to a good price.
All help appreciated and thanks for reading.

[RobDickinson]

85mm f1.2? :D

IMO the 24-70 is the better bigger piece of glass and wins in fights but no use if you need the extra reach.

IMo get a 17-50 tamron and a 70-200f2.8IS.

[Sprout Crumble]

Think I'd go for the 24-105 out of those two. I'd say general concensus was that it was a tad better than the 24-70 and the range is certainly better for animals.

If a 5D isn't in your future, its arguable that the 17-55 EFS is even better than those two. Maybe that and a Sigma 50-150/2.8. Bit more expensive but has the IS, the range, the quality and the 2.8 from 17 to 150mm.

[raymondlin]

17-55 Is 2.8 ?

[puddleduck]

If you want something nice and wide, look at the Tamron 17-50 f/2.8 Di.

Its a superb lens - the money you save on the lens, would get your some photo lessons to work on your technique problem that is causing camera shake (I don't mean this in a sarky way, but if you can't handhold short teles without shake, its an area you should work on)

[Radiohead]

I've got both - the 24-70 wins hands down for outright image quality. The way it renders out-of-focus areas murders the 24-105, and it has a 3D pop that the 24-105 can't match. On the down side it's bigger (much with the hood attached), heavier and has a more limited range and obviously lacks IS.

The 24-105 has a superb range, particularly on full-frame, is a lighter and more compact lens and probably better as an all-rounder.

If you want to stop motion then look for the 2.8, if you want an all-round lens for general shooting go for the f4.

[lewmon]

I'm looking at the 24-70 as well, I have the 24-105 and as Radiohead says is a nice all rounder but just doesn't cut it in low light.

Is the 24-70 about comparable in weight as the 70-200mmIS ?

Will have to make a decision soon as I have a B&H voucher burning a hole in my pocket and needs to be spent in the next couple of weeks. Other option is to get a couple of pocket wizards and start experimenting with off camera flash...that will be a big learning curve for me.

[Radiohead]

It's a little lighter and obviously shorter - it has an equally large hood though. Immensely well-built though, and genuinely tank-like.

[lewmon]

It's a little lighter and obviously shorter - it has an equally large hood though. Immensely well-built though, and genuinely tank-like.

Ok, thanks for that. Tank like...guess the nickname 'The Brick' is well deserved.

[filmfan100]

If you want something nice and wide, look at the Tamron 17-50 f/2.8 Di.

Its a superb lens - the money you save on the lens, would get your some photo lessons to work on your technique problem that is causing camera shake (I don't mean this in a sarky way, but if you can't handhold short teles without shake, its an area you should work on)

Hopefully very valid about the shakes.Never thought about lessons but there is loads of room for improvement.On this basis I think I will go for the 24-70 f2.8 as it seems to be coming down in price a bit and in the future go for the 70-200.
With the 1.6x crop factor it should be okay on length for what I want.
Really appreciate the advice from everyone and will just think on it over the weekend.:thumbs:

[Sprout Crumble]

IS has it uses and its not all about technique. I have to take pictures at work on a compact of many of the sites we have and the angles you have to contort yourself into to get a photo are ridiculous. IS makes them usuable, particularly one-handed shooting.
Besides, having good technique applies equally to an IS lens. You'll still get the extra stops of stability.

[puddleduck]

Hopefully very valid about the shakes.Never thought about lessons but there is loads of room for improvement.On this basis I think I will go for the 24-70 f2.8 as it seems to be coming down in price a bit and in the future go for the 70-200.
With the 1.6x crop factor it should be okay on length for what I want.
Really appreciate the advice from everyone and will just think on it over the weekend.:thumbs:

As a basis, work on your breathing, and your foot position, and make sure your elbows are tucked in to act as a brace.

http://www.nikonians.org/html/resources/guides/technique/handholding1.html

(I've just observed one technical deficiency of my own when shooting portrait orientation)

Use support from doorframes, trees, fences, anything that is available.

With practice, you should be able to gain 2 or 3 stops within a week I reckon - set your shutter to manual, and look to see what shutter speed you can shoot at now comfortably, and aim to lower that. Once you are aware of what is causing shake, its really easy to improve your technique :)

I think its really important to learn good technique - if you adopt IS from the off, you'll have no incentive to learn (and good technique will always trump technology)

[Sprout Crumble]

If not, try beta-blockers....

[filmfan100]

As a basis, work on your breathing, and your foot position, and make sure your elbows are tucked in to act as a brace.

http://www.nikonians.org/html/resources/guides/technique/handholding1.html

(I've just observed one technical deficiency of my own when shooting portrait orientation)

Use support from doorframes, trees, fences, anything that is available.

With practice, you should be able to gain 2 or 3 stops within a week I reckon - set your shutter to manual, and look to see what shutter speed you can shoot at now comfortably, and aim to lower that. Once you are aware of what is causing shake, its really easy to improve your technique :)

I think its really important to learn good technique - if you adopt IS from the off, you'll have no incentive to learn (and good technique will always trump technology)

Thanks for the link will try and improve.By that I was holding the lens incorrectly and arms wrong.Still bad shake so will exercise arms and keep trying.

[Sprout Crumble]

This should help with the arm exercises.......

http://www.thedvdforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=475971